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We supply and lay any size of lawn both for commercial and domestic customers. The old lawn is removed using a turf cutter, the ground is then rotovated, raked level and then firmed up using a vibration plate. An enriched fine topsoil is then added and again raked level and firmed up before laying high quality turf.

A long high fence in pale wood

Quality, well-designed fencing will add security, privacy, and aesthetic excellence to your garden. To get the kind of fencing you need, see the specialists at Lush Lawns Ltd. We can supply you with fencing in a variety of styles and using a variety of materials, including timber and metal.

Fencing & Turfing Specialist

We're proud to present you with our phenomenal fencing service at a price that'll suit your pocket. We offer free quotes - why not call us on 01740 630 412 to get yours? You won't be disappointed! We also endeavour to provide you with a service that is peerless in its professionalism and dependability.


Based in Stockton-on-Tees, we can serve you wherever you are within a 10 mile radius.

Great low prices

For fine fencing at a fantastic low price, call now on

01740 630 412


Watering a Newly Laid Turf

Newly laid turf needs water to survive. Very often this requirement will be met by rainfall, but during dry spells you will need to keep it damp for the first 28 days by watering.

Plan ahead to prevent the turf drying out, don’t have a new lawn laid if you are going on holiday or if you are going to be away for some time as watering needs to be carried out every day. Invest in a good oscillating water sprinkler and make sure your hosepipe is fit for purpose and will reach the area where the new turf has been laid.

When we have finished turfing, watering should be commenced it straight away ensuring that the soil is damp to a depth of 100mm. Thereafter, aim to keep the turf, and the soil underneath it, damp. You can check this by turning up a corner of the turf. Care should be taken not to flood or over water the lawn.

In the following days, only water in the early morning or early evening, so the sun doesn’t burn off the water you have applied.

It’s important not to over water your lawn at any stage. This creates boggy conditions which encourages the  development of moss and grass diseases. It is not always necessary to water if it has rained. Check first to see if the soil is moist.

Water less and less frequently over the next 28 days. The turf should never be allowed to dry out and go brown in this period

After 28 days your turf should be well established and will be able to fend for itself without the need for further watering.

Initial mowing of a new lawn

The turf should have established with the roots dropping into the ground within two to three weeks during mild growing weather (Spring, Summer and early Autumn) providing it has received sufficient watering. It will notably slower during the Winter months due to the

lower soil temperature.

Once you are happy that the turf has established sufficiently, and always before the grass gets 50mm high, mowing can commence. Adjust your mower to the highest setting so that only the tips of the grass leaves are removed first. If mowing is too severe it can inhibit establishment of the roots and even kill the grass.

Fertilising the new lawn

This should not normally be required as the turf is pre-fertilised. It is recommended that the lawn should not be feed within the first 6 months.

Essential maintenance and mowing of an established lawn

Mowing should be done regularly as required, depending on growing conditions, and at least once per week from Spring to Autumn. Try to avoid leaving the lawn un-mown for any number of weeks. If the height of cut is to be reduced, it should be gradually reduced over a number of weeks during the main growing season, however do not cut  more than 25% of the initial height at any one time. It is also important that the lawn should never be cut closer than 15mm. When the lawns are cut to short is encourages moss and weeds. Additionally, if the sun is hot the lawn will end up scorched. If this occurs do not apply any feed but give the lawns plenty of water and lift the height of the mower blades for subsequent cutting.

During late Autumn if mild conditions prevail, mow whenever frost not imminent. However the lawns should be cut on a high level to leave some growth. This will make the lawn more hardy as you go through the Winter. In early Spring or as conditions improve cutting of the lawns should be on a high level gradually reducing the height to you reach your required height.

Feeding the established lawns

This is the single most important factor which leads to the quality of the lawn deteriorating. Lawns, like all living organisms require regular feeding if they are to remain in a healthy condition and disease resistant. If they are not fed regularly, the grass plants thin out and cannot

compete with weeds and moss. All established lawns should be fed in the Spring at

the first real signs of any growth. This enables the lawn to start the season off with good, vigorous, healthy growth ahead of any germinating weeds.

A patch of ground before turfing A smoothed-over area of soil prepared for turfing Lawn turfing in progress A striped lawn edged with privet hedge A sprinkler on a lawn